A  Woodside  Reminiscence 

By 
Grizzly  Ryder 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 
AT   LOS  ANGELES 


ROBERT  ERNEST  COWAN 


A 

WOODS  IDE 
REMINISCENCE 

AS  TOLD  BY 

GRIZZLY  RYDER 


ROBERT  ERNEST  COWAN 


A  WOODSIDE  REMINISCENCE 


THE  BIG  REDWOOD 


A 

WOODSIDE 
REMINISCENCE 


AS  TOLD  BY 

GRIZZLY  RYDER 


PRIVATELY  PUBLISHED 

SAN  FRANCISCO 

MDCCCCXX 


PRINTED  BY 

PAUL  ELDER  AND  COMPANY 
PUBLISHERS,  SAN  FRANCISCO 


dL 
795 


A  WOODSIDE  REMINISCENCE 

IN  THE  year    1914,  at  the  end  of  a  winter's  day  in    A 
Springfield,  Massachusetts,  having  completed  the  business    Woodside 

,,_,,.,,  ,  i      .    .  i  Reminiscence 

which  I  had  in  hand,  and  not  desiring  to  return  to  the 
home  of  the  friend  with  whom  I  was  visiting,  at  so  early  * 
an  hour,  I  wandered  along  the  main  street  of  the  city, 
towards  the  outskirts.  Seeing  a  sign  "Antique  Furniture" 
displayed  over  the  entrance  to  an  old-fashioned  colonial 
house,  I  wandered  in — more  with  the  idea  of  escaping 
the  cold  air  and  falling  snow  than  with  any  expectation 
of  finding  anything  of  particular  interest. 

As  I  entered,  I  saw  seated  by  a  stove  at  the  farther  end 
of  the  room,  two  men  evidently  well  advanced  in  years. 
One  of  them  came  forward  and  in  a  very  courteous  man- 
ner asked  how  he  could  serve  me.  I  replied  that  I  was  idly 
looking  about  and  if  he  would  grant  me  the  privilege  of 
looking  over  what  he  had,  though  I  probably  would  not 
purchase  anything,  I  should  appreciate  his  courtesy.  He 
immediately  replied  that  I  should  make  myself  at  home 
and  returned  to  his  friend  by  the  stove. 

I  wandered  around  the  place,  seeing  the  usual  assort- 
ment displayed  in  places  of  that  character — composed 
mostly  of  old-fashioned  warming  pans,  flax  wheels,  and- 
irons, etc.  Finally,  arriving  close  to  where  the  two  men 
were  seated,  I  heard  the  proprietor  say  to  his  visitor : 

"Do  you  expect  to  go  back  again  to  that  country?"  to 
which  the  visitor  replied : 

[3] 


272336 


"Yes,  I  certainly  do!  I  am  going  back  just  as  soon  as 
my  wife's  health  will  permit.  I  would  not  live  anywhere 
else." 

Without  any  ceremony,  I  broke  into  the  conversation 
and  said:  "You  are  absolutely  right:  it  is  the  only  place 
in  the  world  fit  to  live  in." 

The  old  gentleman  turned  suddenly  and  said,  "Are 
you  from  California?"  To  which  I  replied  that  I  was;  that 
I  was  born  there  and  had  spent  most  of  my  life  there. 
He  said :  "Come  and  sit  down;  I  want  to  talk  to  you." 

So  a  place  was  made  for  me  by  the  fire  and  I  imme- 
diately entered  into  conversation  with  the  two  men.  The 
proprietor  said:  "This  is  Mr.  Ryder,"  and  added  further, 
"he  is  commonly  known  as  'Grizzly  Ryder,'  from  an 
encounter  he  had  in  the  early  days  in  California  with  a 
Grizzly  bear.  You  can  see  that  the  upper  portion  of  his 
ear  has  been  torn  away.  I  can  bear  evidence  to  the  fact 
that  his  body  is  covered  with  scars  from  this  same  en- 
counter." 

I  turned  to  Ryder  and  asked,  "What  part  of  California 
are  you  from?"  He  said:  "I  lived  the  greater  part  of  my 
life  in  California,  about  thirty  miles  south  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  I  will  draw  a  map  and  show  you  just  exactly 
where  my  house  was  located." 

He  then  took  a  piece  of  paper,  drew  quite  an  accurate 
map  of  the  country  lying  south  of  San  Francisco,  and 
indicated  Woodside  as  the  particular  locality  where  he 
lived.  I  became  interested  at  once,  on  account  of  my  own 
familiarity  with  that  neighborhood  and  said  that  I  would 
like  to  hear  more  about  his  early  experiences.  As  I  had 
ample  time,  he  proceeded  to  relate  the  following : 

[4] 


"I  enlisted  for  the  Mexican  War  and  after  the  termina-    A 
tion  of  that,  started  west   for  California,  with  a  man    ^oodside 

Reminiscence 

named  Tripp."  ^ 

I  there  interrupted  him  and  said,  "Do  you  mean  Dr.     * 
Tripp?"  whom  I  had  known  as  a  child,  living  in  Wood- 
side,  and  who  had  continued  to  live  there  until  a  very  few 
years  ago.  He  said,  "Yes,  Dr.  Tripp,"  and  continued: 

"We  finally  reached  California,  came  to  San  Francisco, 
which  was  then  practically  a  bustling  village,  and  as 
neither  Tripp  nor  myself  cared  for  city  life,  particularly 
as  it  was  then  being  carried  on  in  San  Francisco,  and 
realizing  the  great  demands  for  lumber  of  all  kinds,  we 
decided  to  locate  south  of  San  Francisco,  where  lumber 
was  plentiful,  and  engage  in  the  lumbering  business.  We 
settled  at  Woodside,  traveling  to  that  point  from  San 
Francisco  on  horseback.  At  that  time  there  was  but  one 
house  between  the  Mission  Dolores  and  the  little  town  now 
called  Redwood  City,  which  at  that  time  was  called  the 
Embarcadero — the  name  being  derived  from  the  fact 
that  the  lumber  which  was  cut  along  the  mountains  in 
that  neighborhood  was  hauled  to  this  point  where  a  slough 
made  up  from  the  bay  was  located,  and  was  there  floated 
down  and  finally  reached  San  Francisco.  The  way  we 
used  to  float  the  logs  was  to  tie  several  together,  launch 
them  at  the  flood  of  the  tide  and  they  would  float  out  with 
the  ebb.  We  would  then  anchor  them  so  that  the  incoming 
tide  could  not  float  them  back,  and  so  continue  until  we 
had  reached  the  bay.  Keeping  close  to  the  shore,  we  fol- 
lowed the  same  tactics  until  finally  we  would  land  our 
logs  at  San  Francisco ;  at  least,  those  of  them  which  were 
not  lost  in  transit. 

[5] 


A  "There  were,  at  that  time — or  at  least  soon  after — five 
sawmills  located  within  a  radius  of  two  miles  around 
Woodside,  as  there  was  plenty  of  Redwood  timber  to  be 
*  had,  many  of  the  trees  growing  quite  a  distance  into  the 
valley.  Tripp  and  I  lived  together  and  employed  a  gang 
of  men  engaged  in  cutting  out  piles  for  some  of  the  San 
Francisco  wharves,  which  were  then  being  constructed. 

"As  is  well  known,  that  section  of  the  country  was  much 
infested  with  Grizzly  bears,  particularly  a  little  further 
south  back  of  what  is  now  known  as  Palo  Alto.  One  morn- 
ing we  discovered  that  a  pair  of  our  oxen  had  disappeared — 
evidently  strayed;  and  being  unable  to  find  any  trace  of 
them  in  the  neighborhood  of  our  camp,  we  concluded  that 
they  had  strayed  south  along  the  base  of  the  mountains, 
into  what  is  now  Portola  Valley.  There  was  a  rich  growth 
of  pasture  grass  there  and  it  would  be  a  natural  place  for 
strayed  animals  to  remain.  We  knew  that  there  were 
many  Grizzly  bears  in  that  neighborhood  and  realizing 
the  danger  the  animals  ran  in  being  unprotected  in 
that  district,  it  was  determined  to  go  at  once  and  seek 
them. 

"I  started  out  from  the  camp  in  the  early  morning, 
with  a  young  Mexican  boy,  who  was  to  accompany  me. 
As  we  would  have  to  search  over  a  considerable  area,  we 
did  not  take  horses,  but  traveled  along  the  well-beaten 
trail  on  foot.  It  was  agreed  between  the  boy  and  myself 
that  we  should  meet  at  a  certain  rock  which  was  plainly 
to  be  seen  and  well  known.  The  meeting  was  to  be  at 
sunset.  We  also  agreed  that  if  either  of  us  found  the  oxen, 
he  was  to  drive  them  to  the  camp  without  waiting  for  the 
other,  and  the  remaining  one,  going  to  the  rock  as  agreed, 

[6] 


at  sunset,  and  the  other  not  arriving,  it  would  be  known    A 
that  the  oxen  had  been  found  and  driven  to  camp. 

"I  hunted  about  all  day  without  success  and  finally 
arrived  at  the  rock  about  sundown,  to  await  the  young  • 
boy,  and  remained  there  for  some  time  after  the  sun  had 
set,  but  the  boy  did  not  appear.  I  naturally  concluded  that 
he  had  found  the  oxen  and  driven  them  to  camp,  as  we 
had  agreed.  So,  in  the  pleasant  evening  air  I  started  along 
the  trail  towards  camp  and  I  remember  particularly,  as 
I  walked  along  where  the  trail  turns  sharply  to  the  west, 
an  enormous  Redwood  tree.  I  stopped  and  looked  at  it 
and  thought  that  as  soon  as  I  had  a  little  time,  I  would 
make  some  money  by  cutting  it  into  shingles,  which  were 
in  demand  for  the  quicksilver  mines  at  that  time  pro- 
jected at  Almaden.  I  continued  along  the  trail  a  short 
distance  beyond  that  tree,  where  there  was  an  adobe 
occupied  by  a  Mexican  and  his  family.  He  also  employed 
an  old  Indian  woman  about  the  premises,  and  an  old 
sailor  who  had  run  away  from  his  ship  in  San  Francisco 
Bay.  The  old  adobe,"  Ryder  continued,  "was  built  in 
1836  and  is  now  the  property  of  a  Mr.  John  A.  Hooper. 

"I  went  into  the  house  and  sat  there  chatting  for  more 
time  than  I  realized  and  finally,  as  I  got  up  to  leave,  I 
noticed  that  it  was  quite  dark.  There  was,  however, 
sufficient  light  from  the  young  moon  still  shining  over 
the  mountains  to  make  the  trail  entirely  distinct  and  I 
knew  that  I  had  not  a  great  distance  to  walk  before  reach- 
ing our  camp  at  Woodside.  As  I  started  to  go  out  the 
Mexican  said,  'Ryder,  are  you  armed?'  to  which  I  re- 
plied, 'I  have  my  knife,  but  I  have  no  other  weapon; 
why  do  you  ask?'  'Well,'  the  Mexican  replied,  'you  might 

[7] 


meet  a  bear  on  the  trail,'  but  I  said,  'I  do  not  think  there 
is  a      danger,'  so  proceeded  along  the  trail  on  my  way 

Reminiscence  »««'«<•  1  i  11  i 

home.  About  half-way  between  the  adobe  and  our 
*  camp  was  a  little  stream  called,  at  that  time,  by  a  Span- 
ish name  which  I  have  forgotten,  and  where  the  stream 
ran  across  the  trail,  the  ground  being  somewhat  level,  it 
spread  out  and  formed  some  little  pools  and  it  was  at  one 
of  those  that  I  intended  to  refresh  myself  with  a  drink 
of  water.  That  stream  is  now  called  Bear  Creek,  taking 
its  name  from  the  incident  which  I  am  about  to  relate, 
and  is  the  present  source  of  supply  of  the  Bear  Gulch 
Water  Company. 

"I  knelt  down  and  took  a  long,  delicious  draft  of  the 
cool  water  and  as  I  looked  up,  I  could  just  see  the  moon 
sending  its  last  beams  through  the  Redwoods,  before  it  set 
behind  the  mountains.  Realizing  that  I  must  hurry,  I 
arose  quickly  to  my  feet  and  as  I  did  so,  I  perceived  a 
large  object  very  close  to  me,  which  I  thought  at  once 
was  one  of  the  cattle.  Lifting  my  arm,  I  shouted  to  it, 
and  before  I  had  time  to  make  any  movement,  the  thing, 
to  my  horror  and  surprise,  arose  upon  its  hind  feet  and 
grabbed  me  around  the  body.  I  realized  that  I  had  met 
a  Grizzly  bear.  Fortunately,  the  animal  was  probably 
as  greatly  surprised  as  I  was,  and  grabbed  me  quite  high 
up  about  the  shoulders,  so  that  my  right  arm  was  com- 
paratively free.  I  at  once  loosened  my  sheath  knife  and 
proceeded  to  plunge  it  into  the  beast.  She  then  let  go 
and  struck  me  a  blow.  I  say  'she'  because  even  in  those 
moments  I  realized  that  there  were  two  cubs  about  my 
feet.  The  blow  felled  me  at  once  and  as  the  ground 
sloped  sharply  away  from  the  mountains  at  this  point, 

[8] 


THE  OLD  ADOBE,  REMODELED  ABOUT  1880 


I  proceeded  to  roll  down  a  sort  of  embankment  towards    A 
the  brush.     The  bear  pursued  me,  striking  at  me  and    Woodside 

...  ,  .  Reminiscence 

biting  me,  but  it  was  evident  that  the  cubs,  who  also 
proffered  their  assistance,  got  in  her  way  more  or  less;  * 
otherwise  I  never  would  have  reached  the  bottom  of  the 
declivity  alive.  Although  suffering  great  pain,  I  re- 
tained consciousness  and  thought  of  that  old  saying  that 
if  one  will  lie  perfectly  still,  a  bear  will  not  molest  one; 
so  I  made  no  outcry  but  as  I  reached  the  edge  of  the 
brush,  I  lay  perfectly  still.  The  old  bear  sniffed  at  me 
once  or  twice,  then  dealt  me  a  blow  with  her  paw  and 
went  away  and  left  me.  I  lost  consciousness  and  how  long  I 
lay  in  that  condition  I  do  not  know,  but  finally  became 
aware  of  a  voice  which  seemed  to  be  away  up  in  the  air, 
calling  my  name.  I  could  hear  this  faint  sound,  'Ryder, 
Ryder!'  and  just  had  sufficient  strength  to  make  a  faint 
moan  in  reply.  I  then  fainted  again  and  did  not  recover 
consciousness  until  I  came  to  in  the  adobe,  with  those  who 
lived  there  about  me,  trying  to  do  what  they  could  to 
stop  the  flow  of  blood. 

"It  appears  that  the  young  lad  who  went  with  me  in 
search  of  the  oxen,  got  lost  and  did  not  reach  the  rock 
where  we  were  to  meet  until  long  after  sundown.  He 
then  hastened  along  the  trail  towards  the  camp  and 
reached  the  adobe  a  short  time  after  I  had  gone  on.  He 
left  immediately  and  hastened  after  me.  He  had  only 
gone  from  the  house  a  very  short  time,  when  the  in- 
mates were  surprised  to  have  him  come  tumbling  in 
through  the  half-open  door  saying  that  he  had  seen  the 
devil  and  two  bears  fighting  in  the  brush.  The  Mexican 
realized  what  had  probably  occurred  and  grabbed  a  Ian- 

[in 


tern  to  see  if  he  could  arrive  in  time  to  be  of  any  assist- 
ance      jt  seems  that  the  bears  had  torn  my  clothing 

Reminiscence 

entirely  off,  which  gave  the  impression  to  the  young 
*      Mexican  that  he  had  seen  the  devil.     It  is  to  the  arrival 
of  my  friend  from  the  adobe  that  I  owe  the  fact  that  I 
am  here  at  all. 

"The  first  step,  of  course,  in  my  predicament,  was  to 
stop  the  flow  of  blood,  if  possible,  which  was  pouring  in 
a  stream  from  a  gash  in  my  thigh.  The  only  sure  way 
would  be  to  sew  up  the  wound.  The  sailor  said  he  had 
a  sail  needle  and  if  they  would  give  him  some  string,  he 
would  sew  it  up.  The  string  was  found  and  he  proceeded 
to  carry  out  what  he  had  proposed.  Of  course,  he  sewed 
over  and  over,  as  you  would  a  sail,  and  each  time  the 
needle  went  in,  I  thought  it  was  going  clean  through  my 
body  and  coming  out  on  the  other  side.  Even  with  his 
crude  implement  he  made  a  successful  job  of  it  and  the 
bleeding  was  stopped.  In  the  meantime,  the  old  Indian 
woman  had  gone  out  and  found  some  herbs  with  which 
she  was  familiar,  which  she  proceeded  to  steep.  Some  of 
them  were  applied  as  an  outside  poultice  and  some  of 
them  were  made  into  a  tea  which  I  was  given  to  drink. 
While  it  seemed  impossible  that  I  should  live,  for  a  time, 
on  account  of  the  seriousness  of  my  injuries,  I  gradually 
began  to  gain  and  so,  in  time,  from  having  to  lie  on  my 
back  and  look  at  the  walls  and  ceiling,  I  was  able  to  get 
into  a  chair.  Never  will  anything  be  so  beautiful  to  me 
as  the  sight  of  the  Redwoods  which  I  could  see  through 
the  window  the  first  day  I  was  able  to  leave  my  bed.  The 
constant  care  of  those  who  had  so  kindly  undertaken  the 
burden  of  my  sickness  gradually  caused  me  to  improve 

[12] 


and  shortly  I  could,  without  assistance,  hobble  from  the 
bed  to  a  chair  in  one  of  the  other  rooms. 

...~  .  1   -1      T  Reminiscence 

One  day,  while  I  was  sitting  enjoying  the  scene  through 
the  window,  a  knock  came  at  the  door  and  in  walked  a  * 
man  with  a  small  box  under  his  arm.  He  said,  'I  am 
looking  for  a  man  named  Ryder.'  I  replied,  That  is  my 
name;  what  do  you  want?'  He  said,  'I  am  a  doctor  from 
San  Jose.  Some  men  in  a  logging  camp  wrote  and  told 
me  there  was  a  man  here  who  needed  attention  and  asked 
me  what  my  charge  would  be  for  coming  out.  I  told  them, 
they  sent  the  money,  and  here  I  am.  I  want  to  look  you 
over.'  I  told  him  I  would  be  very  glad  to  have  him  do 
so  and  he  proceeded  to  make  an  examination  of  my 
wounds.  After  he  got  through,  he  said,  'If  I  had  not  seen 
you  alive,  I  would  not  believe  that  it  was  possible.  I  find 
you  in  very  good  condition  with  the  exception  of  that  leg 
which,  owing  to  the  injury  of  the  thigh  and  the  impossi- 
bility of  your  receiving  proper  medical  attention,  will  have 
to  come  off,  and  I  shall  proceed  to  amputate  it  at  once.' 
I  said,  'Well,  Doctor,  this  is  a  great- surprise  and  shock  to 
me  and  I  wish  you  would  give  me  half  an  hour  to  think 
the  situation  over  and  prepare  myself,  and  if  you  will  go 
into  the  other  room  where  the  family  are,  and  give  me 
that  time,  I  shall  be  ready  for  you.'  I  made  up  my  mind 
at  once  that  I  was  not  going  to  submit  to  any  operation. 
If  I  was  going  to  live,  I  was  going  to  live;  and  if  I  was 
going  to  die,  I  was  going  to  die ;  but  in  either  case  it  would 
be  with  all  my  arms  and  legs.  I  realized,  however,  that 
I  was  helpless  and  could  not  prevent  the  doctor  from 
doing  what  he  thought  was  necessary,  so  I  attracted  the 
attention  of  one  of  the  children  playing  outside  and  when 

[13] 


the  lad  came  in,  I  told  him  to  take  a  horse  and  go  up  to 
^    camp  and  tell  two  men  whose  names  I  gave  him,  to 

Reminiscence 

^  come  at  once  and  bring  their  guns  with  them.  As  you 
*  can  well  understand,  we  had  various  kinds  of  people  in 
our  camp  and  some  of  them  were  rather  desperate.  The 
two  I  had  sent  for  were  desperadoes,  but  very  good 
friends  of  mine.  It  was  a  great  relief  to  me  when  I  heard 
the  sound  of  horses  outside  and  the  two  men  came  in. 
I  told  them  the  circumstances;  that  I  did  not  want  to  be 
operated  on ;  that  I  would  not  have  my  leg  amputated  and 
I  wanted  them  to  insist  (by  force,  if  necessary)  upon  the 
doctor's  going  away  and  leaving  me  alone.  They  said 
they  would  do  as  I  wished  in  the  matter.  I  then  called 
out  and  told  the  doctor  I  was  ready  to  see  him  and  when 
he  came  in,  I  told  him  I  would  not  be  operated  on.  He 
said,  'Yes,  you  will;  you'll  do  as  I  tell  you.'  I  said,  'No, 
I  will  not.  My  mother's  son  is  not  going  to  either  live 
or  die  without  all  the  arms  and  legs  which  God  originally 
gave  him  and  here  are  two  friends  of  mine  who  are  going 
to  see  that  you  do  as  I  tell  you.'  The  doctor  looked  at 
the  two  men  and  they  said  yes,  that  I  was  right.  He  saw 
at  once  that  it  would  be  useless  to  use  either  force  or  argu- 
ment. He  then  said,  'Well,  if  you  want  to  be  a  damn 
fool,  you  will  die,  and  that's  the  end  of  it.  I  have  done 
what  I  agreed  to  and  I  am  through. '  He  then  went  out  and 
mounted  his  horse,  and  that  was  the  last  I  ever  saw  of  him. 
"I  continued  to  improve,  though  slowly;  gradually 
recovered  entirely  and  while  I  have  only  half  an  ear  on 
one  side  of  my  head,  I  still  am  hale  and  hearty  and  would 
be  entirely  happy  if  I  could  only  go  back  to  California." 
I  then  asked,  "How  old  are  you,  Mr.  Ryder?" 

[14] 


"Well,"  he  said,  "I  say  I  am  eighty-two  but  my  sister    A 
says  I  am  eighty-three  and  perhaps  she  knows  better  than     ^oodside 

_      ,      ,,  Reminiscence 

I  do.  I 

With  that  he  stood  up,  threw  back  his  shoulders,  show- 
ing a  fine  erect  build  of  a  man  who  was  good  for  many 
rough  storms  yet.  He  said  further,  "You  say  you  are 
going  back  to  California  tonight?" 

I  said,  "Yes,  I  am  taking  the  night  train." 

He  said,  "You  tell  Dr.  Tripp  that  he  has  a  turkey  oil 
stone  belonging  to  me;  I  wish  he  would  send  it  to  me." 

I  agreed  to  carry  the  message  and  the  day  after  I  arrived 
at  my  home,  not  far  from  Woodside,  I  drove  out  to  Dr- 
Tripp's  old  store,  which  he  has  occupied  for  so  many 
years,  and  said,  "Doctor,  do  you  know  a  man  named 
Ryder?" 

He  said,  "Grizzly  Ryder  ?" 

I  said,  "That  is  what  he  is  called." 

He  said,  "I  came  to  this  country  with  him  after  we 
had  gone  through  the  Mexican  War  together." 

I  said,  "How  about  that  bear  story?" 

The  doctor  said,  "True,  every  word  of  it,  as  is  every 
other  statement  that  Ryder  would  make." 

I  said,  "Doctor,  Ryder  told  me  to  tell  you  to  send  him 
that  turkey  oil  stone  you  have  of  his." 

The  doctor  laughed  and  said,  "That's  right,  too.  I 
have  it  and  will  send  it  to  him  within  a  day  or  two." 

This  is  the  story  of  how  the  stream  which  furnishes 
the  supply  of  water  to  people  living  in  and  about  Ather- 
ton  and  Menlo  Park  Districts  received  the  name  of  "Bear 
Creek." 

Regarding  Ryder,  I  saw,  about  1917,  an  item  in  the' 

[15] 


27233G 


A    San  Francisco  Chronicle,  giving  a  short  history  of  his  life 

Woo<          and  saying  that  he  had  died  at  the  home  of  a  daughter 

I      in  Brooklyn,  New  York,  so  evidently  he  never  had  his 

.wish  fulfilled  of  again  seeing  California,  the  country  which 

he  loved  so  well. 

CUTLER  L.  BONESTELL. 


[16] 


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